Carretera Austral - March 10, 2023
This note will be brief, I’m writing it in a hurry as we have just arrived in Futaleufu for our second night on the road. and the power is out here at the moment. I’m on my laptop until my battery dies and I hope to get this out in time. After we leave early tomorrow our next couple of nights will be spent in an eco camp where there is no cell or internet capability so after today we will be temporarily off the grid.
When last heard from R and I were getting ready for our departure from Chiloé and on to mainland Chile . The start of our actual Carretera adventure begins on the mainland on Route 7 , the single highway that runs north south and whose length makes up the Carretera Austral.
Our ferry ride, a four hour passage from Chiloé to the mainland, was due to depart at 8am Thursday morning. We were awake by 5am and on the road by 5:30 to get to the ferry by 7am to be in good time for loading our car on the ferry. We arrived at the appointed hour only to see precisely nothing happening and the gate on to the ferry dock firmly shut. Seemingly there was a mechanical problem but we were told not to worry, the ferry would leave by 8:30. When the ferry dock opened it was 9:30 but there was no rush to make up lost time. Things continued to move at a leisurely pace until 11am when we finally departed. Smooth sea and an easy crossing made up for the delay and we arrived at the top of Route 7 to begin our real Carretera adventure at 3:30pm.
The rain which has marked the previous couple of days in Chiloé followed us to the mainland and all along our drive. The rain itself was not hugely problematic but the rain clouds and fog were very close to the ground and ever-present so that while we knew we were surrounded by the Andes we had to take that on faith since it was impossible to see them.
Andes, fog and rain but beautiful
Our first night was spent on Lake Yelcho, about a 2 hour drive from the ferry and we were very pleased to arrive at our lodging, a fishing camp on the lake. The setting would have been spectacular if visible, snow-capped peaks surrounding a very large lake which attracts fisher people from around the world. All lost to us, but the lodge itself was wonderful. Rustic furnishings and varnished pine interiors, it would have been easy to imagine that we were in Muskoka. Aside from ourselves the guests were Dutch, German and Spanish and again aside from us, very intent on their rods and hooks and stories.
Pleasant enough dinner, I’m being very generous, but as ever the wine and company were good and I slept for a solid 8 hours. Setting dinner aside, a very good night.
The highway crossed a pass in the Andes today and the highway now continues on the east of the ocean-hugging Andes range. The Andes consists of 3 or 4 parallel rows of north-south mountains and the western-most range runs too close to the ocean to allow the highway to continue on that side. We are now east of the ocean-side range and as a result our weather should improve. Once we crossed the pass the clouds began to lift and the rain slowed but still not bright and sunny. However we live in hope.
Tomorrow in Puyuhuapi Lodge and fingers crossed for better weather.
More to come once we’re back on the grid!
Robert and Hans, our driver. No, I’m not revealing who is whom…
